{Sweetspot: B. Patisserie in San Francisco}

Posted by Tiffany

This past weekend I took a break from the baking and got out of my kitchen to venture to a new bakery in San Francisco that I’ve been hearing about. Actually, it was an excuse to get together with friends, enjoy a day in the city, and get a taste of what the professionals can really do (my own very amateur baking skills can only go so far–making croissants and kouign amann are unchartered territory). Stepping into B. Patisserie is like a space warp, transporting me away to Paris–spacious and open, bistro marble tables and chairs line up on one side, with an open kitchen to watch the pastry chefs and workers haste about to prepare the delectable pastries for the steady stream of customers, and displays of glorious French pastries fill up the marble countertop only separated from eager patrons by glass.

B. Patisserie is refined and elegant though still serving up traditional baked goods that defines the classic French patisserie. There are no twists or new inventions–their pastries (at least the ones we tried) were pure and expected, though uncommonly amazing. Their emphasis seems to be on the flaky, buttery, yeast doughs–varieties of croissants, brioche, kouign-amann; though they also make sure that those looking for something more elaborate are not disappointed, with their selection of tarts, mousse, millefeuille, of course including at least one flavor of the quintessential macarons. However, their menu is not purely pastries. If craving something savory, they also offer tartines (open-faced sandwiches) served with a side salad. The bread is crusty and rustic, topped with flavorful topping combinations that make you forget you are really eating toast. It is no wonder that B. Patisserie has received so many glowing reviews since their opening earlier this year.

The hardest part of visiting this bakery was deciding what to order. Thankfully our helper waited patiently, and we came away with: quiche, chocolate almond croissant, kugeloph, kouign amann, and an order of the wild mushroom, kale, goat cheese and braised leeks tartine. Oh, and of course I had to pick up a cherry chocolate macaron for a snack later. The quiche, to be honest, was good but not exceptional. Everything else, however, made me light up with delight–and this is not normally the type of thing I would say so I really mean it. I’d never had a kouign amann before (wouldn’t even know how to pronounce it, except my friend taught me so I wouldn’t embarrass myself when ordering), and if you haven’t had one either, you are missing out. Something like a cross between a croissant and puff pastry, the dough is buttery, flakey, soft and chewy all together with a sweet syrupy filling. The kugeloph was like a chic cinnamon roll (I hope I’m not disparaging it by making this comparison!) topped with almonds and without the extra excessive icing to detract from the flavors. Out of the pastries, the chocolate almond croissant was the highlight. Also buttery and flakey, without collapsing from its own weight and not the least bit soggy, the almond paste was perfectly smooth without being too custard-like and the chocolate was the right amount to complement the almond and butter flavors.

With this one visit, I feel like I’ve only scratched the surface, and I hope to be able to come back here again soon to get a taste of even more. B. Patisserie is a wonderful place to enjoy the sweet life, as they do in Paris. Bring a friend and make a memory out of it.

B. Patisserie is located at 2821 California Street in San Francisco.

{Tartine’s Clafoutis (with cherries)}

Posted by Tiffany

My mom is a wonderful cook, recreating traditional savory dishes, though she doesn’t spend a lot of time baking or making desserts. With my insatiable sweet tooth growing up, this was a bit of a disappointment. However, the one dessert my mom knew how to make was her version of flan with essence of lime and a caramel sauce, which required steaming and wasn’t baked at all. Flan wasn’t my necessarily my favorite dessert, but if my mom made her flan, I knew it was a special occasion. I have my mom’s recipe for her flan written down (her measurements were based on sight!), but have yet to try making it myself and had forgotten about it.

So what does that have to do with this clafoutis? After taking my first bite, I was sent on a trip down memory lane. I didn’t think the clafoutis would be like a flan (and some may take offense at the comparison) but the sweetness and creaminess of the baked custard was reminiscent of my mom’s flan–I was 13 again at Christmas, plunging into a giant slice of my mom’s steamed flan. Amazing how a taste alone can elicit fond memories of the past.

Recipe notes: Easy to make and classic, Clafoutis is a French baked custard dessert made with cherries. Traditionally, the cherries are unpitted, the pits enhancing the flavor and essence. I pitted the cherries, though, since I thought pausing to spit out cherry pits would interrupt enjoyment of the dessert. Tartine’s recipe suggests baking the clafoutis at 500F degrees for the last 5-10 minutes after sprinkling sugar on top to caramelize the top. However, the sugar didn’t quite caramelize, and I might recommend moving the rack higher for this last step or to switch to broiling (though watch carefully if broiling!). Clafoutis is also usually served warm or at room temperature, but I still loved it just the same after refrigerated.

{Tartine’s Clafoutis (with cherries)}

1 hour, 10 minutes

Ingredients

2 cups whole milk
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 vanilla bean (I used vanilla bean paste)
pinch of salt
3 large eggs
1/3 cup + 1 T. unbleached all purpose flour
2 cups cherries, pitted
sugar for topping

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 425F degrees, and butter a 10" ceramic quiche dish (or similar baking dish)
Combine milk, sugar, vanilla and salt in a saucepan, and bring to a just under a boil over medium heat. Stir regularly to dissolve the sugar.
While heating the milk mixture, in a medium heatproof mixing bowl, mix together 1 egg and the flour with a whisk until smooth. Mix in remaining two eggs, making sure there are no lumps.
Slowly pour or ladle the milk mixture into the egg mixture, whisking as the milk mixture is being added.
Pour the batter into the baking dish and add cherries, evenly distributing them in the dish.
Bake for about 30-35 minutes (the clafoutis will be lightly puffed and browned on the edges; the center should be set).
Remove the baking dish from the oven and increase the oven temperature to 500F degrees. Sprinkle sugar evenly on top and bake an additional 5-10 minutes for the sugar to caramelize. (Setting oven to broil may work better, but be careful since the sugar will caramelize quickly.)
Allow the clafoutis to cool on a wire rack for about 15 minutes before serving.

Adapted from Tartine by Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson.

http://bakingattiffanys.com/2013/06/11/tartines-clafoutis-with-cherries/

{The Back in the Day Bakery’s Chocolate Bread}

Posted by Tiffany

Bread is the ultimate comfort food. Pair that with chocolate, and it takes it to a whole other level. I’ve never seen chocolate bread before, and this recipe intrigued me–and it gave me an opportunity to try working with yeast again. I loved the way my place smelled when I baked up the bread, especially as intermingled with the warm chocolate aroma. And this is the type of bread that makes me want to throw out any carb restrictions.

I was never really drawn to baking my own bread–the intimidation of yeast and the process of kneading all seemed like work I’d rather leave to someone else. For once, the dough actually rose, which means I managed to activate the yeast and not kill it in the process. That alone is victory for me. After baking this, I can see how the freshness of bread right out of the oven provides a reward unequaled by a loaf purchased from the store. I now have a much deeper respect for the craft.

Recipe notes: While the recipe calls for regular unbleached all purpose flour, I used Bob’s Red Mill’s organic unbromated unbleached white flour, which was labeled as ideal for bread making. The flour has a higher protein and gluten content, and my bread came out very chewy–the way I like sweet breads.

{The Back in the Day Bakery’s Chocolate Bread}

4 hours, 30 minutes

Yield: 1 10"x5" loaf

Ingredients

2-1/2 cups unbleached all purpose flour
3/4 cup cocoa powder (the book recommends Valhrona)
1/3 cup sugar
1-1/4 t. instant yeast
6 T. unsalted butter, at room temperature, cubed
1 t. sea salt
1 cup bittersweet chocolate chips
1/4 cup turbinado sugar
heavy cream to brush on top

Preparation

Using the bowl of a stand mixer, combine flour, cocoa powder, sugar and yeast. Mix on low, using a dough hook.
Add 1 cup lukewarm water (about 110F degrees, to activate the yeast), and continue mixing for a few minutes until dough comes together. Allow dough to rest for 20 minutes.
Mix in butter and salt on medium with the dough hook until incorporated--the dough should form a mass with a glossy sheen.
Add the chocolate chips, and mix on low until just combined.
Shape dough into a round loaf on a floured surface, and place in a bowl that has been lightly coated with oil. Cover the bowl, and allow the dough to rise for about 2 hours--the dough should double in size. (Placing in a warm area is ideal.)
Lightly grease a 10x5 pan (according to the cookbook; I used a 9" round cake pan since I couldn't find a 10x5 loaf pan). Sprinkle 1/8 cup of the turbinado sugar on the bottom of the pan.
Using a floured surface, reshape the dough into an 8x6 rectangle (if using the loaf pan) and place into the pan with the seam side down. Shape dough into an 8" round if using the round pan.
Cover the dough with plastic wrap, and allow the dough to double in size again, about 1-1/2 hours.
When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350F degrees. Brush the top of the dough with heavy cream and sprinkle remaining turbinado sugar on top.
Bake for approximately 30 minutes. When done, allow the bread to cool in the pan for about 30 minutes, then remove it from the pan to cool completely on a wire rack.

Adapted from The Back in the Day's Bakery Cookbook by Cheryl Day and Griffith Day.

http://bakingattiffanys.com/2013/06/04/the-back-in-the-day-bakerys-chocolate-bread/

{Pierre Herme’s Chocolate Crepes}

Posted by Tiffany

Last year, I had the privilege of going to Kenya to catch a glimpse of life in a poverty stricken country. It was an eye opening experience, which reminded me of how much I have–and how little gratefulness I have. With so little, the Kenyans I met had more joy and contentment than I did, and I really saw that all this “stuff” I have (and what I think I need) could never provide real happiness and fulfillment. As foreigners, we stayed at a hotel for the first part of the trip, and one of the most delicious things I had for breakfast were their crepes. Probably from the European influence, as a former British colony, the crepes they served were simple (lightly sweet and rolled up) yet almost a luxury and not something the locals would typically eat. Crepes may be associated with France, though for me, I now think of my time in Kenya and all that I experienced there.

Crepes are delicate and delicious, and make any occasion a little more special. They aren’t as fluffy like pancakes, but I like the texture and flavor that comes from the proportion of eggs in the batter. (Don’t get me wrong, I love pancakes too.) I’ve only tried making crepes once a while ago, and have forgotten how easy they are to make, as intimidating as they may seem.

Recipe notes: My only modification to this recipe would be to increase the sugar just a little bit to 2T–I felt that 1-1/2 T of sugar was not enough to make the crepes even mildly sweet. Keeping the liquids at room temperature will make mixing in the melted butter easier. The batter should have the texture similar to that of heavy cream, as the cookbook suggests (this recipe is from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Herme by Dorie Greenspan). You can serve crepes with whipped cream, though I sprinkled a little sugar in some and rolled them up and spread Nutella in others and folded them into triangles to serve with fruit. I also didn’t use a real crepe pan, but used a nonstick pan instead–I know that is so inauthentic, but just this once…

{Pierre Herme’s Chocolate Crepes}

Yield: About 20 5-1/2" crepes

Ingredients

95 grams (2/3 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
3-1/2 T. cocoa powder (I use Scharffen Berger)
2 T. sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
250 grams (1 cup) whole milk, at room temperature
3 T. beer, at room temperature
30 grams (2 T.) unsalted butter, melted

Preparation

Sift flour and cocoa powder together into a medium-sized bowl. Add sugar and whisk together.
In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs and mlik, then add beer and the melted butter.
Pour liquid mixture into the flour mixture and whisk together until combined completely.
Cover bowl (or transfer to a pitcher and cover, if preferred) and refrigerate overnight.
When ready to make crepes, remove batter from refrigerator and whisk batter together again. You can add a little milk at a time if the batter seems too thick.
Lightly oil a 7-1/2 inch crepe pan (or other non-stick skillet)--only just enough oil to coat the pan is needed. Use medium heat.
Using a small ladle, spoon about 3 T. of batter on to the pan, and swirl the pan to spread the batter as thin as possible. (There is also a crepe tool you can use to spread the batter.)
After allowing the crepe to cook for about 30 seconds or until the batter on top looks like it has set. Using a small spatula, loosen the edge of the crepe off the pan to check the underside of the crepe. If it has cooked evenly, use your fingers to flip the crepe over to cook on the other side.
Finish cooking the crepe for about 10 - 15 seconds.
Transfer crepe to a plate, and continue cooking the rest of the crepes with the batter.
Serve crepes with a sprinkle of sugar and whipped cream or any other filling and toppings you prefer.

Adapted from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Herme by Dorie Greenspan.

http://bakingattiffanys.com/2013/05/27/pierre-hermes-chocolate-crepes/

{Laduree’s Macarons Citron (Lemon Macarons)}

Posted by Tiffany

If you know me, you know that I love Paris. Like LOVE LOVE LOVE Paris. There is no other place like it. It’s a place full of culture, beauty, and inspiration. My fondest memory of Paris will always be taking my mom on a cruise along the River Seine and having dinner at the Eiffel Tower. So completely touristy, but it didn’t matter. My mom had only heard songs and seen pictures of Paris, and she was always too busy taking care of us (me and my siblings) to ever really travel anywhere until later in life. As much as I love Paris for the city that it is, I love it more for the memories I have there with my mom.

Our first dinner in Paris was at Laduree (the luxury pastry shop and tea house) on the Champs-Elysees. Laduree may be credited with originating the double-decker macaron–making a sandwich cookie from two macarons with ganache in the middle. I’m not sure my mom really understood what the fuss was about over their macarons (it’s hard to believe anyone not appreciating macarons!) but I was enamored. I picked up a copy of their cookbook for their sweets (Laduree: The Sweet Recipes), which is a piece of art in and of itself. It comes beautifully boxed, bound in a soft velvety fabric, with gold-leafed edges and pretty pictures, I didn’t think the cookbook would be more than something for my coffee table. To my surprise, the recipes for macarons worked! Though knowing a little about making macarons to begin with certainly helps, since the author here assumes you know what you’re doing. However, he does offer comforting words after each macaron recipe reassuring the baker that even if the macarons don’t come out looking perfect, they will still be delicious. I seem to hear that a lot.

Recipe notes: Now that I’ve tried making macarons a few times, here are some things I’ve learned (or which have been reinforced): (1) Thanks to a tip from the executive chef at Crisp Bake Shop in Sonoma, old eggs work best! I use 1 week old eggs, separate the egg whites the night before, leaving the egg whites unrefrigerated in an airtight container. The next day, they whip up more consistently. I’ve also had far fewer cracks. (2) Precision is everything. For this batch, I used slightly more than 1/2 an egg white to finish off the batter, and it was too runny, which made it very difficult to pipe out in uniform medallions–sigh, what a nightmare after all that effort. Fortunately, some came out picture-worthy. (3) Use commercial grade baking sheets. If you’re going to make macarons, why mess around. (I use Chicago Metallic). (4) Freezing the macarons while still on the baking sheet is the best way to peel them off the parchment paper if they’re still a little sticky–none of that hot water steaming stuff. (5) I’ve obtained the best taste after assembling the macarons, allowing them to “rest” in the refrigerator overnight, then bringing them to room temperature the next day. The flavor and consistency are perfection.

The original recipe yields about 50 macarons, which after attempting it for this post, is a bit much and unwieldy for the casual (and inexperienced) baker like myself, so the recipe I’m providing is half of the original proportions. I’ve also used weight measurements for precision. I also didn’t use nearly enough yellow food coloring, so it doesn’t look like I’ve colored them at all.

{Laduree’s Macarons Citron (Lemon Macarons)}

Yield: About 25 macarons

Ingredients

Lemon Cream

80g sugar
zest from half a lemon
1 t. cornstarch
1-1/2 eggs
55ml or 1/4 cup lemon juice
117.5g or 1/2 cup butter, at room temperature and cut in cubes

Macaron shells

137.5g almond flour
125g powdered sugar
3 egg whites + 1/4 egg white
105g sugar
a few drops of yellow food coloring (optional)

Preparation

Lemon Cream

(make a day ahead)
In a saucepan, mix together sugar and lemon zest.
Mix in cornstarch, eggs (one at a time), and lemon juice.
Bring mixture to low heat, stirring occasionally until mixture simmers and thickens (this took me about 15 minutes).
Remove from heat and allow to cool for about 5 minutes. Using an immersion blender, blend in the butter, one cube at a time, until evenly mixed and creamy.
Place lemon cream in an airtight container and refrigerate at least 12 hours.

Macaron shells

Sift together almond flour and powdered sugar into a medium bowl.
In the bowl of a stand mixer, using the whisk attachment, whip egg whites until they are foamy. Add sugar in 3 additions, adding each addition after each third of the sugar has been dissolved. Continue whipping until the stiff peak stage.
Fold in the almond mixture gently, making sure ingredients have been incorporated. (Add food coloring here, if using).
Beat 1/4 egg white until frothy, and add to the batter, continuing to fold gently until ingredients have been incorporated completely and evenly (but try not to over mix).
Line two commercial grade baking sheets about 13"x18" with parchment paper.
Using a piping bag with a plain round tip about 1/2" wide, pipe out medallions about 1-1/4" in diameter, leaving at least 1/2" in between.
Tap baking sheets on the counter to get rid of any air bubbles. Let macarons rest uncovered for at least 10 minutes or until a slight film forms and the batter is almost rubbery (this could take much longer depending on humidity, etc.).
In the meantime, preheat oven to 300F degrees. When ready, bake for about 15 minutes, until a hard shell forms. I also check to see how easily they come off the parchment paper.
Remove from oven and allow to cool for about 10 minutes. If cookies do not come off the parchment paper easily, allow to cool further or place in freezer for about 10 minutes.
After removing macarons from the parchment paper, pair them up according to size and leave them upside down on the baking sheet.
Using another piping bag with a small plain tip, pipe out small dollops of lemon cream on half the macaron shells, and sandwich each with its mate.
Place macarons in an airtight container and refrigerate overnight for the best flavor.

Adapted from Laduree: The Sweet Recipes by Philippe Andrieu.

http://bakingattiffanys.com/2013/05/20/ladurees-macarons-citron-lemon-macarons/

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